Delhi’s boho-chic markets, like Hauz Khas Village and Shahpur Jat, have always been awe-inspiring for me. Their luxury shops and restaurants located in a critical area are seen as fire hazards waiting to happen. Many months ago, when regional cuisine suddenly began to see a much-needed stir, the odd corners of these markets became unexpected havens for top restaurants serving Andhra, Bihari, and Assamese food. One hot Delhi summer day, I was lured into a Bihari restaurant tucked away in one such market and reluctantly found myself climbing three flights of stairs. While most dishes didn’t leave a lasting impression, the Bihari mutton curry was unforgettable – tender, flavorful mutton swimming in a thin, sweet gravy with a rich layer of flavorful oil, eaten with steamed rice.
This dish, known as Champaran mutton or ahuna mutton, has become very popular in the last few years. While writing this article, a quick search on food delivery apps revealed that 42 restaurants in Gurugram have delivered. But Champaran’s story doesn’t just begin with this hearty delicacy – its name is forever tied to the roots of India’s freedom struggle.
Champaran, a small town in Bihar, was the center of the Champaran Satyagraha in 1917. This movement, led by Mahatma Gandhi, opposed the British exploitation of local farmers, who were forced to grow indigo in their fields without proper compensation. The success of this revolution laid the foundation for the great movement of Indian Independence.
Who knew that one day we would be talking about a delicious dish of mutton when we talk about Champaran?
Champaran mutton is the epitome of simple deliciousness. Also known as they are dying Lamb, they are dying meaning “clay pot” in Bhojpuri, the dish involves marinating mutton in spices, yogurt, and mustard oil for several hours or overnight, then slow-cooking it in a closed pot for two to three hours. No water is added; the meat cooks in its own juices. What you get is a mild mutton curry with a strong flavor in spicy gravy. It’s a perfect dish for beginner cooks as it doesn’t need to be stirred or greased once it tastes better the next day. This is hearty, comforting food.
This slow cooking method is not unique to Bihar. One of my good friends makes a similarly delicious Oriya mutton curry using the same method: season the mutton with onion rings and cook it slowly in its juices. In Tarkulha, a village near Chauri Chaura – another place that played an important role in the freedom struggle – Tarkulha mutton is prepared in clay pots and served as the prasad in the local temple of Devi Tarkulha.
The simplicity of the Champaran mutton cooking process is why this dish is served by the kilo in restaurants as well dhabas. They just need to mix mutton or chicken with all the spices and ingredients, fry a little, cover the bowl, put it on the fire, and forget about it. For meat lovers, I would highly recommend it.
If the popularity of this dish inspires more people to learn about the Champaran Satyagraha and its role in Indian history, then it’s a real win.
For those interested in trying this delicious dish, here is the Champaran mutton recipe that I swear by. It’s a game changer!
Champaran mutton
Ingredients:
• 1 kg mutton cut into medium sized pieces
• 4 tablespoons of mustard oil
• 4 onions in large pieces
• 2 chopped tomatoes
• 2 tablespoons of ginger-garlic paste
• 4 chopped green peppers
• 1 tablespoon of turmeric powder
• 2 tablespoons of chili powder
• 2 tablespoons of coriander powder
• 1 tablespoon of cumin powder
• 1 tablespoon garam masala powder
• 1 teaspoon mustard seeds
• 1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
• 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
• 1 teaspoon nigella seeds (kalonji)
• 1 cup of skimmed yogurt
• Salt to taste
• Chopped fresh coriander leaves (for garnish)
The process
1. Marinate the mutton in all the ingredients listed.
2. Keep it in your refrigerator overnight or at least 3-4 hours.
3. Heat the pan, then add the lamb meat and its marinade. Saute well until the mutton and the marinade start to brown.
4. Lower the flame, cover the pot with a tight lid, and allow to cook for at least 2-3 hours.
5. I open the lid, add a spoonful of water and stir the mutton every hour.
6. If using a pressure cooker, cook the mutton for at least 12 whistles.
7. Once cooked, mix 1 teaspoon of homemade garam masala (makes a difference), and you can add coriander leaves.
Next week, I will be writing about Benne Dosa and why dosa is Achilles heel.
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